Please can anyone help I need to return my frame back to the original spec.

I need locations relative to lower body tubes angles lengths widths for the front screen, roof and rear cockpit tubes etc so I can weld new tubes on.
Does anyone know what the techenical specfication of the steel tube originaly used.

I also want to add the rear cross brace as per the show car below



Oh and does anyone know if type 4 rockers will fit a type 1 engine.

This is the last performance mod before going to a Type 4.

"The Type 4 cylinder heads also feature larger intake ports (all dual-port), larger valves, and a larger ratio rocker (1.3:1 versus the 1.1:1 for the 1600cc T1). "




Bob :ph43r:

thanks lovely's for any help

Here are some measurements that I took when my frame originally arrived:



Dimensions are in mm and by the looks of things rounded to the nearest 5mm.

According to FastFugitive over on VZi:

I can't vouch for the accuracy of that but have no reason to doubt it.

Nice data dvd8n. :)

I take it the measurements are to the middle of the frame tubes?

Also, I was under the impression that the thicker frame tubes are 1 5/8" in diameter? :unsure:

Shoot, hoped nobody would ask that .... :rolleyes:

(wanders outside with tape measure, muttering and kicking the dog) ..... :angry:

.... and the answer is yes, to the middle of the tubes. ;)

I miked up the tubes while I was out there and mine are definitely 1 & 1 1/2 inches (or the nearest metric equivalent). Definitely not as much as 1 5/8, even with the layers of paint. That's not to say that some Fugs weren't 1 5/8, however.

Oh, and the 'square' above the driver's head, which isn't marked for some reason, is 700 (wide) by 450 (front to back).

PS I didn't really kick the dog.

DVD an excellent reply as always award your self a beer token which can be redeemed if I am ever in your neck of the woods so to speak.

Could I be cheeky and ask for some angles on the thefront wind screen upright (side) tubes
Oh and how thick is your floor. i presume it's strong enugh to stand on.

Thanks again

Ok, I measured the tubes, and the angles that I got were:

• front: 36 degrees
• middle: 63 degrees
• rear: 21 degrees

All measured assuming that the bar that they connect to is horizontal.

My floor is 2.75 mm thick aluminium (I assume that comes out at a sensible imperial size). I don't believe that it needs to be that thick, but I got the stuff at an extremely good price (ie nothing) :rolleyes: The UVA manual recommends 1/8" which is just a little thicker. It is easily strong enough - it seems a little floppy as a big sheet but it stiffens up no end when you fix it to the chassis.

The manual also talks about using marine ply - It may sound a little naff but don't discount it. Wood has an unbeatable strength to weight ratio.

PS don't you already have a floor (or two)? ;)

DVD

thanks for your reply

yes mine has two floor in parts i.e steel checker plate foot wells
7/8 plyboard front boot area. The outer floor is galvantised steel which goes further back than the fug diagram I have seen.
I take your point about marine ply but is it much cheaper than alloy.

I bought some 6 mm stnadard ply today it wasn't cheap.
I took your advice on doing a mock first of a fly screen.

On another note what size wheels and tyre do you have on your fug.

currently I have (5.5J) 185 55 15 front 195 60 15 Rear

I am thinking of going front 195 60 15 and 205 70 15 rear.

It seems to have a very short first at the moment.

cheers Bob

You are probably right. It was a worthwhile saving a few years ago but the price of wood has gone up a lot in the last few years.

Dvd8n

I have been giving this some thought and as I need to replace the whole upper cage anyway.
I was wondering whether I can go with the 2+2 upper cage and squeeze some small rear seats in.
The fuel tank is going up front as it needs more weight transfer to the front wheels under braking.
The fronts lock well before the rears.

Looking at the Bugpack catalogue you supplied.

The Fug 2+2 appears to be the same frame as Fug 2 below the cockpit.
It just has a different upper cockpit area i.e. more upright at the back of the frame to give extra headroom for rear seats.





Does anyone you know own a 2+2 ?

Not a fugitive 4 that seem to be a very different beast all together.

I have possible found a Roll bar manufacture who can do the tube work for me.

Any thoughts welcome

Bob

I see where you're coming from ...

... but ...

isn't a Fug 2 with a more upright cockpit basically what you have at the moment? :unsure:

Dvd8n

in a few word it isn't a pretty site looks more like and after thought and structural not as strong. :(
The rear hoop is missing for a starter. (which I want to cross brace) :angry:

No it won't do at all I want it to look right and be strong as well if I am going to use those rear seats.

I have a feeling though the rear of the frame is extended on 2+2 as well.

That what is intimated in the blurb "and additional rear cage length" but are they just taking cockpit upper frame.

The wheel base is just nice as it is and I really would not want to change it too much.

I suppose I will have to speak to Ron at Bugpack again and get it from the horses mouth.

What I suppose I was really asking was did UVA ever produce this hybrid frame. <_<

The thing is I like the look of Fug 2 much more than 4.
Long snout short arse. B)
This is a personal view don't take this the wrong way anyone with a Fug 4.

Any way thanks for the early reply sorry for rambling on.

Bob

As the owner of a bone stock fug 2, my opinion is that you will be struggling to fit 4 seats in. I think this because of the extreme layback position of the seats. And the seats need to be like this because of the low roof. If you want seats that lay down less then you need a higher roof. You see where I'm going with this?

I can sympathise with your feelings about the cage on yours, though. It is a bit 'frankenstein', especially at the back.

As I see it you have 4 options:

• Restore it to stock Fug 2. Be happy with 2 seats.
• Sell it and buy a Fug 4.
• Tidy up what's been done already. Try and fit 2 more seats in.
• Cut the top off. Install 4 seats. Build a good looking top that covers the 4 seats.

I'd go with 4. Thing is, you can do it with a CAD package, a photo and scissors, or even a pencil and paper. You don't need to cut metal until you are happy that it will work. A word of warning though - the floor tubes are positioned with the assumption that the seats will be in a specific position. You may need to move them if you fiddle with seat positions.

Don't discount 2, though. It would be cheaper in the long run.

Dvd8n

wise word indeed especially

However my prefered option is 4.


thanks

Bob

Looks like modification will be too expensive when I priced up the tubing its over £200.00 for the steel (2x 4m lenghths) CDS 3mm that's before bending fabrication and welding. seems pricey to me
Does any one know ?
May as well put it in a new chassis from Bugpack as it's only £750 all in shipped and VAT with a new IRS rear and custom torsion housing. It still not eligible VWDRC though :( may be someone know where.

Now it seems to me that it would be a lot cheaper to buy a replacement chassis from e-bay - like this one that Paul spotted, maybe, and swap your parts over.

http://forums.fugitives.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=184

It's currently at £7.09 which is a h*ll of a lot cheaper than your other options. Swap your chassis number over too and Bob's your uncle .....

( Typed that last bit before I thought about it :blink: )

ah good news. I did a friend a favour and turns out he can help out with the chaisis. My mate has contacts with and engineer shop with hydraulic press and the tube original quoted was cds 3.5mm which incorrect as its made from esw tube 2.5mm so that will be a lot cheaper should be able to fabricate in exchange for some PC work he needs doing more my kinda of thing. I can still go full chasis option later and sell my chasis with and engine in it for that kinda of money.
having said that the if money was no object they had some lovely stainless tube it would look fantastic but well expensive to do a whole chasis no just the tube but manufacture not easy stuff to bend just right as its springs back.
http://forums.fugitives.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=184 £310.00

My uncle ship toys in and so may be able to get it shipped in one of his container loads. In knock down form should be reasonablly small. If that's the case may ship some other parts aswell. I will have to get from his ware house though up north to Essex.

One thing though still won't be elligible for VWDRC as the spec needs to 1 5/8 tube cds may go and have look at the full spec though

It's creeping up. Didn't think it would get that high.

Well this is an interesting thread. :)

Agent orange and I have a couple of fugs that are slightly different, in so far as the frame height.

We were wondering if one of them was a fug4, but a 2 + 2 would make more sense as the frame length seems the same. :huh:

The difference is the tube that comes up and forwards at an angle behind the drivers head, the height variation is 100 mm centre to centre.

Orange one is 580mm and the black one is 680mm would that be about right?