can anyone post a picture of the front cyle wing stay as the ones on mine are home brewed and not effective.
also a shot of the rear opnes would be useful

alos any idea's where I can get some aluminuim cycle wings made up in Essex?

thanks

see build manual on main site

hi bobacat, you can make them yourself.

make a piece of paper in the good size. them cut it out of a aluminium plate.
and the most difficult is bending it.

it's the cheapest way :D

Bobacat,a friend of mine is going to roll me some flat ones out of chequerplate, spelling doesn't look good but you know where i'm going. I figure if they are painted satin black they should all but disappear. He can make them to whatever you would want though. Mudguards tend to let a lot of buggies down,they are one of those things that are very difficult to fabricate. I've just done a wing for the back of mine that i shall photograph soon and i'm about to run up a new alloy fuel tank. Anything you want made just send a picture and i'll get you a price.

100 bob

thanks I definetly need 4 cycle wings and a tank fabricating.

approx 8-10 gallons to fit at the front of my fug II centre fill with flow return and breather plus sender for fuel gauge

what sort of rough cost we talking here


cheers

I'll get on to that when i see him later this week. What made you want a fuel tank in the front,thought in your pictures you had one behind the seats. I have one about that size in the front of mine and were making up a cylinder type one for behind the seats so i can use front one as ballast. I'm hoping mine will be able to lift the front nicely on acceleration. If not i'll increase power till it does,i'm on the look out for adaptor plates at present.

100 bob

once I had fitted and electric pump for the washer I removed the spare wheel, wood lining and steel plate form the front. This was a considerable weight.
Now the front end is too light and is prone to lockup under braking as not enough weight gets transferred to the front.

Puting the tank up front will help a little to redress the balance. :rolleyes:

I have moved the batterry forward too but that was more to increase the passenger footwell.

Why carry ballast ?

It has lees than 100 bhp :( so any weight I can strip counts big time. :)

Any way if you could get a price for the tank that would be good.

cheers

Even with a custom 12 gallon petrol tank, battery and a 3 gallon dry sump tank right up front I am still having problems with the front locking up under heavy braking...

I would suggest a bias bar for the brakes as a minimum requirement to try and address this. Not sure if your front is lowered or not, but the lower it is the less chance you have of transfering the wieght forward under braking...I think this is now my problem

I made my own tanks for both oil and petrol, if I can help at all just ask?
:)

I'm on it and should know this week for sure. I'll also photograph the tank in the front of mine so we'll know we're talking about the same thing. Mine is a race frame with the additional bracing so to that my tank out you remove the front axle. Still the measurements can be the same so we'll know it'll fit.
I should have a good 100bhp as i've got a 2ltr twin-cam,hopefully a bit more to be honest. I really wanted something that would lift the front wheels when i pull away hard,had a special that could do it years ago and i need to do it again. If your's is real light on the front can it lift.?

heres my 2 pence worth......I have a fug-4 and the seating position is obviously more forward than a fug-2, so more weight up front to start with, my fuel tank is also up front, located centrally between the two occupants, much like DVD8N’s in his renovation thread. My battery is mounted behind the drivers seat, I have a dual cylinder master cylinder set-up with a bias adjust bar, once I got the bias bar set correct all wheels pretty much lock up together, and it stops real quick…….therefore having weight up front is quite important, I was toying with moving the battery up front, but its stopping quite ok at the mo, so I probably wont bother……If I had a fug-2, I would put as much weight up front as possible, battery and tank for sure.

A while back I spoke to a fug-2 owner on the volkszone forum who had a crash in a fug-2 many years ago, and as the battery was up front, he got smothered in battery acid – not good…….therefore put your battery in a good quality motorsport specification (MSA approved) battery box. And make sure your fuel tank is well secure.

As for wing stays, my fronts are made out of 10mm solid steel bar, which has been bents and welded to the uprights, although they could look better they are well solid…….someone once said to me you should be able to do chin-ups on a good one……if they can vibrate / flap around in any way they will eventually break off due to fatigue failure – therefore don’t be afraid to make some real heavy duty ones – personally I don’t think aluminium is up to the job – its too soft…….unless your using expensive aero spec stuff………I know the Locost racers are forever replacing / weld repairing their flimsy race efforts – waste of time if you ask me

I dunno if your looking for front or rears, but this link is a good source for hard to find wide front wings to fit over 205 width tyres, vented or not.......I have the vented ones and I think they are way cool
http://z7.invisionfree.com/Fugitive_Forums...p?showtopic=118

.

Agree wholeheartly with Knighty

Locking up and running under the back of another vehicle isn't funny. knowing that this could be a problem I've built in a hydraulic bias as well as the bar on the two master cylinders.....just need to dial it all in when it stops raining :blink:

Moving back to the cycle wings brackets.
I beefed up the original UVA supplied ones on mine, they were never used by the first couple of owners and thankfully they came with the chassis. They are made from 12 mm dia steel tube (1/2 inch) with 1/16 inch wall thickness. Being the recycler that I am I found that an old sun bed was made with the same type of tubing and cut this up to reinforce them. But even B n Q can supply metre lengths of 1/2 inch steel tubing now...

Even at the magic 'ton' they are very stable....not sure if they are the 'right' way to go but I can take some pictures if you are interested :ph43r:

hmmmm.......I have to say 1/16th (1.6mm) wall thickness is still quite thin in my opinion, if you was to ever mig weld 1.6mm it will crack eventually........ If I was using tubing I would go for 1/8th thickness wall (3.2mm)......nice and sturdy - but even I know finding the right size tubing can be a real pain in the ass some times........

dont forget the rule of thumb - could you do a chin-up on 1.6mm wall tube - probably not......3.2mm - yes I think quite likley

so you have done a ton in your fug! well done - I have nudged 90mph.......but bottled out after that......whizzing around country lanes is my preferred option nowdays :D

Not short enough to do chin ups on my mudguards but i would make them strong enough to sit on :D

My fug ended up being sat on more than driven at bugjam one year and that must have cracked one of the mudguard stays. Almost home when the front mudguard started flapping after one stay broke. It flapped for a few seconds before it touched the tyre and was ripped off, it went under the front wheel and was spat straight into the air, managing to go a couple of meters above the roof.

It would have been funny but I was on the M25. Luckily I was on the inside lane as coming off at next junction so it landed on the hard shoulder. Had it happened earlier, been the offside mudguard, happened at 80 in the outside lane, I hate to think what might have happened :unsure:

So from bitter experience standard steel conduit isnt strong enough, and Knightys right, it cracked at the weld :(

On the original set up you had two lengths of tubing bent in to the shape of a big 'question mark' . To be welded to a plate on the stub axle, I cross braced this several times so although the initial idea seems flimsy the result is very sturdy.
Because of the Porsche brakes my calipliers are bolted onto the front of the stub axles, leaving the original fixings to bolt up a substantial plate for the stays, I also gusseted all the welded joints to try and minimise any flex. You can't sit on my mudguards cos I would probably hit you <_< but being only 1.5mm rolled flat alloy sheet the stays are not supporting a huge weight either. If you were using thicker (read heavier) then the stays would have to be beefed up accordingly

I am running in the rings at the moment after a rebuild over the winter. The book says 5,000 for 500miles....but this is still 100...in 4th B)

can someone post a picture of these stays so I know what they are suppose to look like.

The ones on my fug are solid bar and not very elegant.
the build manual isn't that clear !
bob