Have been thinking for a while about dropping the back of the Fug, it really is about as high as it can go. It doesn't appear too difficult, however I've read a couple on sets of instructions and they really conflict. Can anyone give me a clear and best way of doing this please.

I too need to drop the rear of mine and also try to level it up as one side sags a little. My mate lives in aus and recons its dead easy. I have also read different ways of doing it on the net. I think i will fit adjustable rear arms to mine when i do get round to it.javascript:emoticon(';)')

to difficult for me to explain in english.

but some links with pics shows enough. bet some others can explain the rest.




http://members.lycos.nl/brothersinbeetles/...de_verlagen.pdf

I doubt if it would be harder for you to explain it in English than it would be for me to understand it in Dutch :unsure: Don't get me wrong, I am grateful and the chart is very helpful. Just wonder what is under what pressure when I take it apart. Some sites say there is loads and others say ther is none. Just want to make sure I get it lower and even.

yes, if the height is stock or higher. there is a BIG load. fingercrushing..

swingaxle? take loose the 3 bolts, maybe the handbrake cable.
pull the wheel/brakedrum/axle backwards.

take off the cap (deksel veerplaatlager). there is still a load/tension on the springplate. push sideways with a tirelifter? or big metal strip. if will shoot down.

then adjust on the splines. there are different on in- or out-side. see the pic above.

1 outer spline is aprox 5cm/ 2inch?. I assembled mine without preload/tension.

so my fug is low...

if you take off your wheel first and study how and where the "bump" is for the springplate on your torsionaxle, you hopefully understand this.



and for the front, you can use the wellknown weld-in adjusters, or lowered spindles.

1 outer spline is roughly 2 inch while an ineer spline is 1 inch.

if yours is standard or higher there will be some pretention in the spring plate. :ph43r:

Firstly, wack a cold chiesel mark across the top of the spring plate / axle, use this later toaid reassembly ;)

secure the vehcile on axle stands, you will be hitting, pulling and tugging so make sure it is well secure before hand.

unbolt everything and pull it all out the way. Take the cover off the end of the spring plate (4 bolts then cover the end of the torsion bar) and tap with a big copper mallet the inside face of the spring plate. The idea being to get it off the little step that is cast into the chassis without it coming off the splines. Do this both sides and measure the angle of the spring both sides, adjust if necessary. I use a carpenters square, has a protractor and spirit level built into it. Easy to use and accurate. Once you are happy both sides are the same then you can play with spline settings as per rutgers chart. Assembly is the reverse. I use a trollet jack to jack the vehcile up on the spring plate once its clear of the lip you can hit it home so it rests on the lip. The cover plate is sometimes a git to get back on cos of the rubber bushing but a couple of extra long bolts to help line it up first then smack it home with the hammer before you fit the proper 4 off bolts.

Line your chiesel marks up and reassemble :P

if it helps, I lowered my swing-axle fug by 1 spline, and with 2 inches of reduced height it ended up being too low, like in the weeds, so I then bought a set of adjustable spring plates and this allowed the ideal amount of fine tuning, if you go down this route, be sure to use the standard black rubber bushes, and you will need to get a long thin meat carving knive and bore out / shave the rubber bush hole by a bout 4mm, so it actually can fit and expand over the OD of the adjustable swing axle plate tube, as its bigger than standard........otherwise it just dosent go on.