Hi all

I have been looking at replacing the steering box with a steering rack.

My question is how crucial is it the track rod arms are stairght with the rack

I notice on the pictures of Tigers steering rack they are kicked back slightly.

The problems is the chassis tubes braces between top and bottom would need to be relocated to get is dead straight which can be done but is it worth going to this amount of effort ?

Caloun,
Having the arms slightly swept back is not an issue but the rack must be positioned so the centre line of the rack is in line with the ball joints (the big ones which are used to locate the stub axles. If you do this (unlike me the first time around :( ) you will be rewarded with correct steering geometry and steering that will be positive with just the right amount of feedback. Height wise you are aiming for the tie rods to be level or ever so slightly rising up to the stub axle. I built a little bit of adjustablity iinto mine with some simple shims (M8 washers) :D

Rack wise, I used a Golf GTi Mk1, but only because i knew it would marry up with the aircooled Beetle column etc

Tigger

thanks

what about the track rod ends

are thread universal I know the tapers are different on the swivel end as this UVA has early Beetle supension pre 67 as tere are two types of track rod end.

As my VW coloumn would be replaced.

I thought about replaceing it with a Metro Rack and column as per later UVA models

Whats your opinion ?

thanks

Caloun,
At the end of the day, anything is possible. I think your only problem area will be the taper on the track rod end as the early ones like yours (pre '67 beetle) are not common now as the modern stuff like the metro will almost certainly use a far bigger robust design. If you are really intent on using the metro rack then suggest you weld Beetle track arms on the ends of the existing metro ones? You will have to possibly shorten the track rods anyhow? So shorten the arms and weld the 4 inch section with the thread in it, in place of the metro ones thus allowing you to use the Beetle track ends..job done B)

As I say I used Mk1 Golf because threads etc were compatable. I have heard of people using the Afla Romeo rack as well as it is very compact and small and fits in nicely

Tigger

can I chage the arms on the torsion beam to accomodate the latter track rod arms


Cal

Caloun,
Yes you can! The actual bit you have to change is the stub axle, the torsion arms did not change providing you have ball joints as opposed to link pins, and the later ones with the larger tapered hole for the tie rod ends are 'a like for like' swap :D

You will need the stub axles for a post '68 beetle. If you have disc brakes then you will need to look for either 1500 ones or rarer still ones off a GT. but there are aftermarkets kits available now which give you the same thing. :P

caloun - in order to make the car as least nervous as possible, you want the longest track rod pivot swing radius possible.........the longer the arm radius length the least amount the arc will want to pul the upright in or out as the wheel travels up and down.......this is what causes a fug to lock up under braking, or cause huge amounts of bump steer........formula vee cars sussed this years ago, and sure enough if you look at a formula vee steering rack, the main body is about only 400mm long....which is very short.....so if you buy a long steering rack with short track rod arms, dont be surprised if your fug has very bad bump steer and locks up under braking.