After a while of dreaming, scrimping, scraping Ive finally got my self a rail...




Happy me....you bet :D :D :D

And a rather nice one at that, looks really well, love the wheels. Not to mention the bonus of summer coming up.

Many thanks Bob :D

Fab! I love the rear lights. B)

Ahhh-h B)

Now I've seen your beast, and a very fine one at that B)

I suggest you lower it.

Judging by the wheels I'm guessing its for the street? If so... lower it, by lowering the centre of gravity and initia and taking away that nasty postive camber on your rear wheels and having a slightly nose down attitude you will stop the front lifting :P


P.S That looks cold :ph43r:

Many Thanks...I was unsure but as its running a 2l aircooled I think they are appropriate :D

Thank you..Im loving it :D

Many :D thanks for your advice I'll give it ago B) It is indeed intended for the street although never say never ;) I just need to learn more about fixing it before I start breaking it :lol:

As for cold no cooler than my bike used to be ;)

nice one fella, I recognise that rail form the baja forum, certainly a nicely built rail.......Tiggar is right, lower it a tad, but dont slam it on the floor, the camber on the rear is a bit dangerous in my opinion, I had the same problem and lowered it 1 spline which was actually way too much, so I invested in a pair of adjustable spring plates, now its just right at about 2 degrees negative camber.........be careful

you may want to consider placing the fuel tank up front, also lower your type pressures to sometiing like 15psi.....if they are more than 20 psi it will be too hard

your front suspension certainly dose look high.......I had the same problem and got a beam from ebay with the adjusters already welded in, failing that plenty of places now sell adjustable front beams....... its common buggy knowledge (aparrently!) that if you leave all the torsion leaves in the standard front beam the suspension will be way too stiff........each tube has 10 leaves, 4 are big, 6 are small.....basically remove all the small leaves from both upper and lower tubes.......the suspension will then become much more compliant and springy......but it certainly wont be too soft.

where are you based fella?.......are you gonna come to stoneleigh kit car show on easter bank holiday........your rail would look cool on our pitch

I used to run a 10" steering wheel and found it just plain dangerous, as it was very hard to turn the wheel, now I run a 132 item and its a dream.

if you lower the front suspension be very careful with the steering rod angles as you soon run out of travel and the steering becomes very snappy and dangerous, hence get yourself a pair of bump steer bushes and have the uprights drilled out by a good machine shop which allows you to fit the ball joints on the underside of the upright and straightens out the tie-rods.......I went through this episode and it is now gone from dangerous to perfect

If my memory is correct each outer spline on the rear is 8 degree's 10 minutes and the inners are 9 degree's.....

So, go clockwise 1 inner spline (to lower) and 1 outer anti-clockwise to give you a resultant 50 minute drop and so on...

Stick a piece of card behind the spring plate before you start and mark where is it now as a datum, if you loose your place at least you can find the start point again B) Measure what 50minutes gives you from standard and then work out what you want.

2 inchs on the rear is a good start, but it depends what you are doing to the front...

Obviously adjustable spring plates take a little of the guess work out but if you have patience the VW set -up can give an almost infinite range if you desire

I strongly recommend dropped spindles for the front (abit pricey but a sound investment) then a 'good' set of gas shocks all round so you can set up the damping

Many thanks folks...Looks like I need to get the manual out :D

Its off for some welding tomorrow as I broke the weld were the steering rod meets the cross member :unsure:

Im based in Reading, As for Stoneligh possibly (although last time I was there I got hammered and ending up putting a £50 deposit on a tiger kit :rolleyes: )..With 5 children ranging from 20 to 3 I have to plan well in advance :lol: :lol:

Nice one Keebs67, I'm between you and Newbury and there is another guy in Basingstoke so I can see a good excuse for a meet up at a pub one summers afternoon B)

Sounds like a Plan :D

Hi Keebs67 i'm the bloke in Basingstoke, nice looking wheels.

Yep sounds good to me :D , but my engine is running like a bag of bolts so i need to try and sort that out first :( .

Ouch..whats wrong with your engine Chris :o

It's running rough with a dead spot and keeps stooling :angry: and i am no machanic but apart from that it's running fine :D i am in the middle of trying to find a local mobile mechanic to take a look. :rolleyes:

I have just had a mobile tuning guy come out and sort my 1.7 alfa boxer engine......last year it was drinking fuel, miss firing and sooting up the plugs......all big signs of a rich mixture........sure enough the carbs were supplying about double the fuel needed, they were a mile out, he balanced the carbs (twin 40 dellortos) set the ignition, tuned the CO and HC to perfection, now its running a treat, all took about 2 hours and cost £70.......well worth it, I should have done it sooner but just never got round to it..........to set a carb properly you really do need an emissions meter and a guy who knows what hes doing with carbs.

Chris,
What engine are you running? And is it standard? I know my way around aircooled stuff pretty well and it sounds like the float level is too high on your carb, making it way too rich...

Sounds like sh*t to me as well :D

Hello Tigger,

Not to take over this thread i'll pm you.

Thanks

Did you get sorted Chris?

Tigger can I have your number please?

There might be light at the end of the tunnel :) , Tigger came round and very kindly took a look, we are just about to put on a weber 32 / 36 carb, so i might be on the road very soon. :D :D B)