Hi again.

Is it necessary to reduce the spring rate at the front of a Fugitive and if so how is it done exactly.

I've read odd bits about removing leaves from the torsion bars and welding and stuff but I haven't seen any specific details.

Anybody done this?

In the old days people used to cut out leaves on the front to help lower the beam.

The spring rate is a tad high considering the loss of wieght but I think this is ok and reading any book on suspension will back this up; stiff at the front, softer at the back which allows the wieght to transfer onto the front wheels when cornering and braking. A decent set of adjustable shocks correctly set up will take any harshness out of the ride.

However, the above only kicks in if you lower the front, the standard set up was considered soft even in the old days for a car and the Beetle was never set up for anything remotely 'sporty'

If you want to lower the front without going mad and still retain a degree of 'softness' then use a set of dropped spindles, this lowers the front by approx 2 inchs by raising the wheel spindle centre line without modifying the spring rate.

Hope this helps B)

Thanks. I do intend to lower the front and I was going to use dropped spindles but I didn't want to lower the front then find that the springs needed adjusting. I could end up with it scraping along the floor.

I have the fuel tank in the front, which although holds 11 gallons obviously isn't an exact science due to it not always being full, but the ride is soft enough to be comfortable, and firm enough to feel what's happening. My Fug had the sway-a-way adjusters welded into the front beam when I first got it, they were however put in only to achieve lift, even on full lowering adjustment it was still heigher than standard. We considered cutting them out and repositioning them, or simply just buying a new beam. As a tempory thing we just took the bolts out the adjusters, let the adjusters simply slip round, made an educated guess and tacked it in place. Drove around a bit then welded it up. I realise it now has no adjustment, nor do drop spindles, but truthfully how many of us really play with the suspension once we have it working properly anyway. I do agree drop spindles are really cool, I've had them on a hotrod, and think they're the answer on a splitty or bay window, but can't justify them on a Fug, sorry. Dropped the rear of mine too, was kind of concerned what to expect, measured angles, dot punched marks, then just pulled the whole lot out as it's about as complicated as Lego.  :blink: What I'm trying to say is, a couple of hours and a poly bush kit for about £30 or so and it's done. I figure that's the answer or use something like the Dax camber  compensation system on the front and put a proper IRS set up on the back and just junk  the VW stuff altogether, mod the drive shafts and you're away. Don't even think it would be that expensive for the standard achieved. If I was to start again, that's exactly what I'd do, why mod something designed 50yrs ago, just replace it with something state-of-the -art.

I must say I am now thinking my front suspension is too soft after removing the six smaller torsion leaves from each upper and lower tube.......after my rad conversion is finished I will probably replace some of the torsion leaves to stiffen it a little more........as when I hit bumps the wheels do seem to flap a bit more that required.........

tigger is right, the traditional waty to run a rear wheel drive race car is stiff front, soft rear.........I think the front VW beam does need a little softening, but Iin hindsight I think I went too far........you live and learn.

one thing which I believe is an absolute must when lowering the front is fitting a set of bump steer bushes - makes driving much safer......those who have fitted them will know exactly what I mean. :blink:

Knighty, as I've alway said, Beetles really ain't my thing so I'm a bit confused. I know what bump steer is and why it happens, but my Fug doesn't seem to do it. Is it because I'm not drastically lowered? my steering all looks at sensible angles, it drives and steers fine. I'm running the tracking as you and Tigger recommended. I'm quite happy to buy anything to make it better though, can you post a pic of your front suspension, I know it's a lot to ask but by what you've said it would help a number of owners.

Personnally I don't have a problem with a 50yr old design, its nice and simple and if set up correctly works really well, ask anyone who races a VW single seater :P

101bob,
You may have yours about right, especailly if your tie tods are level, stick a spirit level on to check...

My car already has the IRS and it also has a Vauxhall Cavalier steering rack in place of the steering box. This has two equal length track rods which reach almost to the centre of the car. I'll keep my eye on the angle of these rods as I lower it and watch out for bump steer occurring.

I tend to agree with 100bob about adjustable suspension. I once had Hi-Lo's on my Mini but I found that once I had the ride height set I never adjusted them again. I suppose that's why so many of them seize up. On later cars I just shortened the struts till I got it right then drove it.

Thanks for all your comments. I really am a Beetle novice so everything here is pure gold.

hi bob - I think Tigger is right.....and going from pics of your car I dont think your car is running low, so your lie-rod angles (when viewed fronm the front will be reasonably level, so steering will be ok........what I should have said was "use bump steer bushes on a lowered fug"........sorry if I mislead anyone!!!!........the front of my fug is about 6 inches off the floor, which I interpret as a "medium" amount of lowering, I think tiggers is much lower!!!.......I know people run bugs much lower, like in the weeds.